7/4/2023 0 Comments Tiltshift reddit![]() ![]() It should be especially useful for photographers who want to capture architecture, near landscape features and interior spaces. ![]() Starting with the GF30mm, we have a standard wide-angle lens format, but with tilt-shift technology. Here’s a breakdown of the few things we know about them. As these essential specs make clear, each lens model will be useful for its own distinct type of photography. The two models are called the Fujinon GF30mm f/5.6 T/S and the Fujinon GF 110mm f/5.6 T/S Macro. Now the brand has revealed that they are coming and that they will offer 30mm and 100mm focal lengths. Finally, to close things off, the pair of tilt-shift lenses were announced.įujifilm has been promising new tilt-shift models for its GFX system since last year but with few details about their key specs. The brand then also revealed a couple of new lenses, the GF20-35mm and the newest edition of the XF56mm f/1.2, which both offer a whole list of superb specs. To add to the surprise factor of the announcement, the iconic brand waited until near the end of the main event to present the two lenses almost as an afterthought, though they’re far from that.įujifilm first announced its hotly-anticipated, upcoming 40MP X-H2 APS-C camera, with the largest sensor ever in such a model. I have limited movements and when I need more I can just unscrew it.One of the less noted surprises at Fujifilm X-Summit in NYC just days ago was the announcement of not just one tilt-shift GF Fujinon lens, but two. It provides some protection as well as allowing be to perform flat stitching. It works so well that you forget it's there. There's been no issues communicating with the lens and frankly I tend to forget that it is an adapted lens - that how well the Kipon works. The lens is working out very well both for the traditional landscape work as well as the non-tradition work I find myself doing. What I have been using is everything minus the monitor to capture lightning. ![]() I've enjoyed using this setup and while the short video from the link shows an external monitor I haven't been using that setup much. I however just checked our Instagram account and saw we had posted a teaser of the setup. ![]() I'm currently busy closing up here in Arizona and about to head to Montana for a couple weeks so I might not be able to share a good image of the setup for awhile. All-in-all, I may be asking the impossible - but some samples would be great if at all possible.Ĭlick to expand.Sorry, just saw this. In short, I would be using the lens quite a long way away from the centre of the image circle (even more so since I will be using a GFX100S), nearly wide open, and hoping for good resolutions and good handling of flare. So what I'd looking for is the lens used nearly wide open with the sort of movements that would be required to straighten up buildings when looking upwards (refer to the pictures I uploaded further up this thread as a guide to just how much I look upwards with these shots). Needless to say, there would often be bright light sources either in-frame or just outside of the frame (but still very much in the flare zone) - think street lights clearly in-shot, car headlights pointing towards the camera, neon signs, etc. Because I am capturing stars, I would generally use the lens at around f4.5 or f5 (certainly not stopped down very much). I guess my main application would see me using it for star trail pictures in bright, urban areas - with the lens being used to ensure buildings look straight even when looking quite sharply upwards. StarTrailsFromFilesIMGP5352-7294_Step7sRGBSMALL by Ed Hurst, on FlickrĬlick to expand.G'day Steve - great to hear from you and thanks for the offer of help it's much appreciated. StarTrailsFromFilesIMGP8661-9999And0001-0928Step9sRGBSMALL by Ed Hurst, on Flickr StarTrailsFromFilesIMGP1961-4360_Step7sRGBSMALL by Ed Hurst, on Flickr International Towers, Barangaroo, Sydney - by night by Ed Hurst, on Flickr As a side note, you will also see bright lights all around, so any lens also needs not to be heavily flare-prone. They show built scenes (with geometry that shows up distortion) when the lens is looking upwards. Here are some examples of what I am keen to avoid. With 23mm lens (or, with the 645Z, the 25mm) I am already at the limit of what I can include with some scenes, so fixing the issue by losing some of the image isn't really practical. When I have tried to fix the perspective in post, using my current camera (645Z), the perspective can end up looking 'right' but at the twin costs of a) losing some of the scene around the edges and b) some minor loss of quality as parts of the scene are stretched. Thanks for the question! My main purpose is fixing perspective - but without losing any of the image around the edges. ![]()
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